Travelogue: Thursday, 25 August 2011, Barcelona

27 August 2011

Arrived in Barcelona yesterday. Really easy trip, save the uncomfortable chairs and pre-United merger lack of economy plus seating on our Continental flight. The hotel was supposed to send a driver, but none showed. After 20 minutes of waiting at the airport, we took a cab to the old part of town where the Hotel is located: San Sever 5, 34.933.040.655, www.notelneri.com.

The hotel is a gem, centrally located but tucked away on a quiet street and all but impossible to find unless you know it’s there. Done in glass, stone, and velvet, the Neri is a mix of old and new architectural elements, austere design sensibilities, and thoughtful flourishes of luxury. I stood underneath the rainforest shower head for what felt like hours.

Our plan for the day is simply to stay awake until a respectable hour for an early dinner. After a late breakfast/early lunch at the hotel, we went out to explore the old part of Barcelona. We started at the Cathedral and then made our way to the Palau de la Música Catalana, the designed by Lluis Domènech i Montaner in the early 20th century. Afterward, we strode down Las Ramblas and checked out the Mercat de la Boqueria, the covered market where we plan to go to for lunch or breakfast today or tomorrow.

Dinner last night, Taller Tapas, a place recommended by the hotel. We have a bottle-and-a-half of the crianza roija, just like Rebecca said we should. The meal was fantastic: mushrooms, spinach and chickpeas, jambon with paprika, gambas sautéed in garlic and Maldon salt, braised lamb shank, crusty bread rubbed with fresh tomato, and chicken skewers.

“Yes, hello, room 306. Would you like more vodka?” Why, indeed, we would. After four bottles from the mini-bar, we’re still not tired. We split three more drinks (and, I confess, some potato chips) brought up from the bar. Even though tipping isn’t required here in Barcelona, I feel strange not giving the hotel staff something for their trouble. We watch part of the first episode of BBC’s Zen, fall asleep around 8 p.m. and wake up at 2:30 a.m.—after an hour and two more Advil PMs, fall back to sleep until construction wakes us moments after 8 a.m.